Pic 1 - MJ Splitter in use with the GRR-Ripper®
Pic 2 - MJ Splitter Kit Package Contents
Pic 3 - Prepare a Setup Board
Pic 4 - Create a Saw Kerf on the Setup Board
Pic 5 - Raise the Saw Blade
Pic 6 - Line up the Drill Guide with the Saw Kerf
Pic 7 - Establish the Position of the Drill Guide with the Setup Board
Pic 8 - Line up the Carbide Tooth with the Alignment Mark
Pic 9 - Securing the Setup Board in Position
Pic 10 - Securing the Drill Guide on the Setup Board
Pic 11 - Drilling the Splitter Locations Holes
Pic 12 - Concept of the Drill Guide
Pic 13 - Dual Splitters feature Micro Incremental Tension Selections (MITS)
Pic 14 - Splitter A Surface A0 with No "+" Sign
Pic 15 - Splitter B Surface B1 with One "+" Sign
Pic 16 - Splitter B Surface B2 with Two "+" Signs
Pic 17 - Splitter A Surface A3 with Three "+" Signs
Pic 19 - Test all Surfaces
Pic 20 - MJ Splitter is Use with the GRR-Ripper®
Made in USA - Patent Pending
Each MJ Splitter Kit contains:
One drill guide
Two splitters with four (4) alignment surfaces
One 7/64" drill bit
Four #8 x 1/2" wood screws
One Installation Manual
One Warranty Registration Card
The remaining drawings illustrate the concept and brief installation procedure. Complete installation steps are included with the kit.
A Setup Board is required for the installation - preferably 1/2" thick MDF that is 15" L x 4 1/8" W. Mark a pencil line across the width that is 3" from the rear end.
Secure the rip fence at 2” to the right of and parallel to the saw blade.
IMPORTANT: Keep the rip fence locked in position until the installation is complete.
The 1/8" saw kerf that you are going to create in the next step will be the alignment path for the drill guide. It is extremely important that the saw kerf is parallel to the right edge of the Setup Board. Using the GRR-Ripper® for this ripping procedure is the best way to ensure a parallel cut.
Feed the Setup Board through the saw blade and stop at the pencil line.
** Disconnect the power to the table saw **
Pull back the Setup Board so the saw blade (without stiffener) can be raised to its maximum height within the saw kerf. Make sure the front of the Setup Board is within the ZCI as indicated within the eclipse in the drawing.
Place the drill guide on the Setup Board by inserting the bottom center rib into the saw kerf.
Push the Drill Guide toward the saw blade until its cheek comes in contact with the front edge of the Setup Board, and one of the carbide teeth becomes engaged in the front opening of the Drill Guide.
Align that tooth with the alignment mark on the Drill Guide’s opening. Make sure that all guide holes are still within the ZCI. This will establish the distance of the guide holes behind the saw blade when it is fully raised.
* Lower the saw blade completely without altering the position of the Setup Board and the Drill Guide.
* Clean up any debris or chips between all contacting surfaces. Clamp the Setup Board in position while applying firm finger pressure (or feather board pressure) on the Setup Board against the fence so that the Drill Guide is tight in the saw kerf. This ensures that the right edge of the bottom rib on the Drill Guide is in full contact with the right edge of the saw kerf. This will also align the centers of the guide holes at the pre-determined distance from and parallel to the right edge of the saw kerf (the actual cut edge of the keeper piece), regardless of the saw blade’s thickness tolerance or any vibration.
Note: The illustration shows a fast and simple way of clamping the Setup Board by using a Hold-Down Clamp and the Stop from Micro Jig’s ZeroPlay Guide Bar System. You may also clamp a board bridged over the Setup Board from the edge of your table saw top.
1) Secure the Drill Guide onto the Setup Board using (4) #8 x 1/2" wood screws (provided). Pilot holes are not required if you use a power hand drill (the bottom of the screw holes are countersunk to accommodate any swarf from the drilling operation). DO NOT drive the screws all the way with the power drill to prevent stripping the threads - lightly tighten the screws with a Robertson or Phillips screwdriver.
2) If you prefer pilot holes, use the 7/64" drill bit (provided) to drill the pilot holes NOT MORE than 1/8" deep, and lightly tighten the screws by hand.
Chuck the 7/64" drill bit into a power hand drill and carefully line up the drill with one of the guide holes. Hold the hand drill as perpendicular and steady as possible and drill through the guide hole to make that MJ Splitter location hole on the ZCI.
IMPORTANT: Drill each hole in one single quick and continuous motion. DO NOT stop and go or re-drill the same hole, as this will enlarge the MJ Splitter location hole and the guide hole, thus resulting in a loosely fitting MJ Splitter.
Drill the other two holes in the same manner.
Note: The pins on the MJ Splitters are 3/8” in length. Preferably, drill through holes on the ZCI. If your ZCI uses replaceable blanks thinner than 3/8” and has a metal frame under the required hole locations, the pins of the MJ Splitters need to be shortened.
This is a top view perpendicular to the location holes on the ZCI. The saw kerf created will most likely be wider than 1/8" because of the differences in the thickness tolerances of the saw blades from the various manufacturers, and normal vibration. In other words, tiny gaps will exist between both edges of the non-spinning saw blade and both edges of the saw kerf from the cut. The MJ Splitter's location holes on the ZCI drilled through the Drill Guide are referenced off the true edge of the keeper piece instead of the right edge of the saw blade for more precise placement of the MJ Splitter.
Before setting up your MJ Splitter for use, please view the following six drawings to understand the concept of our unique design.
Each MJ Splitter Kit comes with two Splitters - A and B. Each of the resulting four surfaces of the two MJ Splitters extends a different distance from the center of the pins. In use, each additional “+” sign indicates that surface is 0.003” ± closer to the fence than the surface that has one less "+" sign. This option also allows you to select a surface that protrudes slightly into the left edge of the keeper piece by thousandths of an inch, which generates slight tension - like a mini feather board - behind the saw blade.
Splitter A - with one center hole for identification purpose.
Splitter B - with one center hole and two small holes for identification purpose.
Surface A0 of the MJ Splitter A has no "+" sign. With this surface (A0) installed facing the rip fence, there will be a tiny gap between the right surface (A0) of MJ Splitter A and the left edge of the keeper piece. Use this surface on stock material other than wood, or for use without the GRR-Ripper®.
Depending on the amount of finger pressure applied during the installation process shown in Picture 9, or any other factors, Surface B1 should barely be touching the left edge of the keeper piece. If not, a very tiny gap (0.003" smaller than with the Surface A0) will be present.
This is the ideal setting, with Surface B2 protruding slightly into the left edge of the keeper piece. A small amount of tension (like a mini feather board behind the saw blade) will keep the stock against the fence for a more precise and safer cutting operation. This tension will not throw off the alignment of the MJ Splitter because the MJ Splitter is engaged in the three location holes on the ZCI. Every surface of the MJ Splitter differs in thickness by only 0.003" therefore, it is very important that the ZCI is tight and has no side play within the insert opening of your table saw.
Surface A3 generates the most tension of all four surfaces in the MJ Splitter Kit, and thus requires increased feeding pressure. This surface is best for those who like to skew their rip fence in the rear.
Note: GRR-Ripper® users should always keep the rip fence parallel to the saw blade!
Push one of the MJ Splitters completely down - by hand only - so that it fits tightly in the holes. Make individual test cuts with each of the four surfaces facing the rip fence (as shown in the next drawing), and select the surface that best suit your preference. Store away the non-active splitter.
The MJ Splitter features
Micro Incremental Tension Selections (MITS),
offers selections between Zero tension or multiple predeterminded tension surfaces. Switch to a different effect, simply pull up the MJ Splitter and rotate 180º or switch to the second MJ Splitter to suit your personal requirement.
Although it is not required to use the MJ Splitter with the GRR-Ripper®, using them in combination creates a seamless harmony. The level of accuracy now possible is in a class by itself!
Store both MJ Splitters and the drill bit on the Drill Guide when not in use. When removing the MJ Splitter from the ZCI, simply pull it out from the installation holes by hand or insert a screwdriver through the hole and pull upward.
Tips: To prevent cocking, place thumb on the top of the MJ Splitter when pulling with screwdriver.
Before storing the drill bit in the Drill Guide, drill through the first two tabs.
Shorten the Setup Board for easy storage.
- Tyler H of MN.